How to Find Your Buffalo Nickel Value (Step-by-Step)

Close-up of a 1937-D Buffalo Nickel coin resting on a dark wood surface showing natural patina

When sculptor James Earle Fraser designed a new five-cent piece in 1913, he wanted to create something uniquely American. He turned away from classic profiles and captured the spirit of the frontier with a composite portrait of Native American chiefs and the majestic American bison. This artistic vision is why the Buffalo nickel remains so beloved today. But its appeal goes beyond its beauty; it’s a series filled with history, rarity, and intrigue. From the early “Type 1” design to the famous “Three-Legged” error, each coin tells a story. That story is directly tied to its buffalo nickel value, which can be surprisingly high for certain dates and varieties. Here, we’ll explore the history and details that make this coin a collector’s favorite and show you how to determine what your piece of American history is worth.

How Much Is Your Buffalo Nickel Worth?

Buffalo nickels are among the most recognized and beloved coins in American history. Minted from 1913 to 1938, these five-cent pieces carry real collector demand, deep historical roots, and values that range from a few dollars for common circulated coins to tens of thousands for key dates in top condition. The short answer to “what is my buffalo nickel worth?” is this: it depends on the date, mint mark, and condition. A worn 1936 Philadelphia nickel might be worth $2 to $4, while a rare 1916 Doubled Die Obverse in Mint State could fetch $15,000 or more at auction.

Have a buffalo nickel you want to sell or get appraised? Visit any of our 5 Chicago-area locations for a free, no-obligation appraisal. Call us at 888-416-2701.

The Story Behind the Buffalo Nickel

The Buffalo nickel — officially called the Indian Head nickel — was designed by sculptor James Earle Fraser and entered circulation in February 1913. Fraser’s design placed a composite portrait of three Native American chiefs on the obverse and an American bison (commonly called a buffalo) on the reverse. The model for the bison was reportedly “Black Diamond,” a bull residing at the Central Park Zoo in New York City.

The coin was struck at three U.S. Mint facilities throughout its 25-year run: Philadelphia (no mint mark), Denver (D), and San Francisco (S). The mint mark appears on the reverse, below the words “FIVE CENTS” and above the denomination line on the ground. Each facility produced different quantities in different years, which is why some date-and-mint combinations are far rarer and more valuable than others.

Buffalo nickels have a composition of 75% copper and 25% nickel — the same alloy used in modern nickels — and weigh 5 grams with a diameter of 21.2 mm. Unlike Morgan silver dollars or gold coins, these nickels carry no precious metal content, so all of their value is numismatic.

An Artistic Vision for American Coinage

When sculptor James Earle Fraser set out to design a new five-cent piece, he wanted to create something uniquely American. He moved away from the classic Greco-Roman profiles of previous coins to capture an authentic vision of the American spirit and heritage. The result was the Indian Head nickel, featuring a powerful composite portrait on the front, which Fraser created by blending the features of three different Native American chiefs. For the reverse, he chose the iconic American bison, an animal that symbolized the untamed frontier. The story goes that the model for this majestic creature was “Black Diamond,” a famous bison living at New York’s Central Park Zoo, adding a touch of metropolitan folklore to this classic piece of Americana.

Design Details and Evolution

Not all Buffalo nickels are created equal, and a small design change early in its production created two distinct varieties. The first coins minted in 1913, known as “Type 1,” featured the denomination “FIVE CENTS” on a raised mound of earth beneath the bison. This design looked great, but it had a practical flaw—the raised text wore away very quickly in circulation. To fix this, the U.S. Mint altered the design mid-year. In the “Type 2” version, the mound was flattened, and “FIVE CENTS” was placed in a recessed area, protecting it from wear. This thoughtful design evolution is a key detail for collectors and a great example of how coins are adjusted for real-world use.

How to Find Your Nickel’s Date and Mint Mark

The date on a Buffalo nickel appears at the bottom of the obverse (heads side), directly below the Native American portrait. The mint mark is on the reverse (tails side), just below the words “FIVE CENTS.”

Here are a few things to watch for:

  • Worn dates: Buffalo nickels are notorious for dates that wear off quickly. If your coin shows no date, it is typically worth only a small premium over face value, usually $0.50 to $2 depending on how much design is still visible. Do not attempt to restore the date with chemicals — this destroys any collector value.
  • Mint marks: Look for a small “D” (Denver) or “S” (San Francisco) below “FIVE CENTS” on the reverse. No mint mark means Philadelphia. San Francisco coins from key years often command significant premiums over their Philadelphia counterparts.
  • Varieties: A handful of years produced important varieties, including doubled dies, repunched dates, and overdate errors. The most famous are listed in the key dates section below.

Unsure what you have? Our certified numismatists at PGS Gold & Coin can identify your coin, assess its grade, and give you an honest market value — at no cost. Learn more about our free coin appraisals.

Buffalo Nickel Value Chart: A Date and Grade Guide

The table below shows approximate retail values for Buffalo nickels by year, mint mark, and grade. Prices reflect current market conditions for problem-free, original coins with natural surfaces. Cleaned, polished, or damaged coins sell for substantially less. Grades: Good (G-4), Fine (F-12), Extremely Fine (EF-40), About Uncirculated (AU-50), and Mint State (MS-63).

Date / Mint Good (G-4) Fine (F-12) EF (EF-40) AU (AU-50) MS-63
1913 Type 1 (P) $20 $28 $48 $75 $175
1913-D Type 1 $28 $42 $72 $120 $275
1913-S Type 1 $55 $85 $155 $250 $550
1913 Type 2 (P) $20 $28 $50 $80 $175
1913-D Type 2 $175 $265 $425 $650 $2,000
1913-S Type 2 $550 $850 $1,600 $2,750 $6,500
1914 (P) $22 $32 $62 $105 $225
1914-D $95 $165 $340 $550 $1,400
1914-S $28 $45 $120 $225 $650
1915 (P) $18 $28 $65 $115 $265
1915-D $28 $48 $115 $215 $625
1915-S $55 $95 $215 $375 $1,100
1916 (P) $15 $22 $48 $80 $185
1916 Doubled Die (P) $2,500 $4,500 $8,500 $13,500 $25,000
1916-D $18 $28 $65 $110 $285
1916-S $18 $28 $70 $120 $295
1917 (P) $12 $18 $45 $75 $175
1917-D $22 $40 $120 $215 $625
1917-S $22 $40 $115 $210 $625
1918 (P) $12 $18 $55 $95 $235
1918/7-D (Overdate) $800 $1,500 $4,000 $7,500 $22,000
1918-D $22 $42 $135 $250 $750
1918-S $18 $32 $110 $225 $750
1919 (P) $10 $15 $42 $72 $165
1919-D $30 $65 $210 $425 $1,400
1919-S $22 $45 $165 $350 $1,300
1920 (P) $10 $15 $40 $68 $160
1920-D $18 $35 $120 $235 $850
1920-S $14 $25 $95 $195 $900
1921 (P) $40 $75 $225 $385 $950
1921-S $175 $365 $1,250 $2,400 $8,500
1923 (P) $10 $14 $38 $62 $155
1923-S $20 $38 $155 $325 $1,400
1924 (P) $10 $15 $38 $65 $160
1924-D $25 $55 $195 $375 $1,300
1924-S $22 $55 $295 $625 $3,500
1925 (P) $8 $12 $32 $55 $135
1925-D $22 $45 $165 $325 $1,100
1925-S $18 $35 $175 $375 $1,800
1926 (P) $8 $12 $30 $52 $125
1926-D $12 $22 $75 $145 $475
1926-S $65 $155 $850 $2,000 $12,500
1927 (P) $8 $12 $28 $48 $125
1927-D $10 $18 $60 $115 $425
1927-S $10 $22 $125 $350 $3,500
1928 (P) $8 $12 $28 $48 $115
1928-D $8 $12 $30 $50 $135
1928-S $8 $14 $42 $85 $350
1929 (P) $7 $10 $22 $40 $100
1929-D $8 $12 $32 $58 $175
1929-S $8 $12 $30 $52 $150
1930 (P) $7 $10 $22 $40 $100
1930-S $8 $12 $28 $52 $155
1931-S $35 $55 $100 $165 $400
1934 (P) $7 $10 $20 $35 $90
1934-D $8 $12 $28 $55 $165
1935 (P) $6 $8 $18 $30 $75
1935-D $8 $12 $28 $52 $175
1935-S $8 $12 $28 $50 $165
1936 (P) $5 $8 $15 $28 $65
1936-D $7 $10 $20 $35 $90
1936-S $7 $10 $20 $35 $90
1937 (P) $5 $8 $15 $28 $60
1937-D $5 $8 $15 $28 $60
1937-D 3-Leg Buffalo $650 $950 $1,600 $2,500 $6,500
1937-S $5 $8 $15 $28 $60
1938-D $8 $12 $18 $30 $65
1938-D/S (Overdate) $12 $18 $28 $45 $110

Values are approximate retail prices for problem-free, original coins. Market prices fluctuate. Contact PGS Gold & Coin for a current, personalized appraisal.

Is Your Buffalo Nickel Valuable? Key Dates to Check

Not all buffalo nickels are created equal. A handful of dates and varieties stand dramatically above common issues in both rarity and value. Here are the ones every collector and seller should know:

1916 Doubled Die Obverse

The most valuable variety in the entire buffalo nickel series. On this coin, a doubling error during the die-making process created a prominent second image on the obverse — most visible in the word “LIBERTY” and the date. In Good condition, these start around $2,500. Examples in Extremely Fine can bring $8,000 to $10,000, and Mint State specimens exceed $25,000. This is a coin worth sending to PCGS or NGC for authentication before selling.

1918/7-D Overdate

In 1918, the Denver Mint used working dies that had been intended for 1917 coinage, with the “8” punched over the existing “7.” The underlying “7” remains visible to the naked eye with moderate magnification. Values start around $800 in Good condition and climb past $22,000 in MS-63. Any coin suspected of being this overdate should be authenticated before a sale.

1935 Doubled Die Reverse

This is a more subtle but still highly sought-after error coin. On the 1935 Doubled Die Reverse, a mistake during the minting process created a visible doubling effect. You’ll want to look closely at the reverse (tails side) of your 1935 nickel, as the doubling is most prominent in the words “FIVE CENTS.” While it might not jump out at you like the famous 1916 Doubled Die, this error is a favorite among collectors who appreciate its distinctiveness. Because of this, the coin commands a definite premium over a standard 1935 nickel, with well-preserved examples fetching hundreds of dollars. If you think you have one, it’s a great idea to have it professionally examined to confirm the variety and get an accurate appraisal.

1921-S

San Francisco struck just 1.557 million buffalo nickels in 1921 — the lowest mintage in the series for a regular issue. Worn examples start around $175, but this coin is particularly difficult to find in Fine or better condition because it was heavily circulated during the economically active 1920s. Certified EF and AU examples are genuinely scarce.

1926-S

Another San Francisco rarity with a mintage of just 970,000 — one of the lowest in the series. Good examples run $65, but the coin jumps sharply in value as condition improves. An MS-63 specimen is worth $12,500 or more, and high-grade Mint State examples are considered condition rarities even within the series.

1936-D “3½ Legs” Variety

This is one of the most famous and visually interesting error coins in American numismatics. The 1936-D “3½ Legs” Buffalo nickel gets its name from a simple but dramatic minting mistake. During production at the Denver Mint, a press operator became a bit too aggressive while polishing a die to remove some imperfections. In the process, they accidentally polished away most of the buffalo’s front right leg, leaving behind just a stump. This created a distinct variety that collectors love to hunt for. Values for a genuine “3½ Legs” nickel are significant and depend heavily on its condition. A well-worn example might sell for around $500, while a pristine, uncirculated specimen can command prices well over $50,000. Because of the high value and potential for counterfeits, this is a coin that requires professional authentication. If you think you have one, our experts can help you verify it and understand its current market value.

1937-D Three-Legged Buffalo

The most famous and widely recognized variety in the buffalo nickel series. During production at the Denver Mint in 1937, a Mint employee used an emery wheel to polish a working die that had developed a clash mark. The polishing removed the bison’s right front leg entirely, creating the iconic “three-legged buffalo” appearance. Good circulated examples are worth $650 to $1,000. Fine to Extremely Fine specimens run $950 to $1,600. Mint State coins regularly sell for $6,500 to $15,000 or more at major auctions. This variety is frequently counterfeited — have it authenticated by PCGS or NGC before buying or selling at significant prices.

Think you might have a key date or variety? Our expert team at PGS Gold & Coin offers free evaluations with no pressure to sell. Schedule your free coin appraisal today.

Proof Buffalo Nickels (1913-1916, 1936-1937)

Beyond coins made for circulation, the U.S. Mint produced special collector versions called Proofs. These coins are not intended for your pocket but are crafted with a special minting process using polished dies and multiple strikes to create a stunning, mirror-like finish and exceptionally sharp details. For the Buffalo nickel series, Proofs were only made in two short windows: from 1913 to 1916 and again in 1936 and 1937. Because of their low mintages and incredible beauty, they are extremely rare and highly prized by collectors. Finding one is a true numismatic event. A genuine Proof Buffalo nickel can be worth a significant amount, with top-quality examples selling for $25,000 or more. Due to their high value, it’s essential to have any potential Proof coin authenticated by a professional.

Rare Errors like the 1925 Struck on a Dime Planchet

Sometimes, the most valuable coins are the ones that were never supposed to exist. Mistakes made during the minting process can create fascinating and valuable error coins. For example, the 1925 Struck on a Dime Planchet is a rare Buffalo nickel made on the wrong type of metal blank. A smaller, silver dime planchet was accidentally fed into the nickel press, resulting in a coin that is underweight, undersized, and made of the wrong metal. These “off-metal” errors are exceptionally rare and can be worth thousands of dollars. Other errors include doubled dies, off-center strikes, and clipped planchets. If you have a coin that looks unusual, don’t dismiss it. Our experts can identify these rarities and determine their true market value.

What’s the Condition of Your Nickel? A Grading Guide

Condition is the single biggest factor in buffalo nickel value, especially for key dates. Understanding the major grade points helps you set realistic expectations before visiting a dealer.

For a deeper look at the entire grading process used by PCGS and NGC, read our complete coin grading guide for collectors.

Poor (P-1) to Fair (F-2)

A Buffalo nickel in Poor (P-1) or Fair (F-2) condition has seen a lot of life, and it shows. These coins are heavily worn from years of circulation, and their most common trait is a partial or completely unreadable date. This is a well-known issue for the series because the date was placed on a high point of the design that wore down quickly with handling. On the reverse, the buffalo will look more like a flat silhouette, with its horn and other fine details completely smoothed away. While these coins are a neat piece of American history, their collector value is minimal. A dateless Buffalo nickel is typically worth about $0.50 to $2.00. Even if you can make out the date, a coin in Fair condition will only show the basic outlines, and it’s always a good idea to get a professional opinion to be sure.

Good (G-4 to G-6)

A Good buffalo nickel is heavily worn with most major design elements present but flat. On the obverse, the Native American portrait is recognizable but the details of hair, feathers, and facial features are largely gone. On the reverse, the bison’s outline is clear but the horn, tail, and leg detail have worn smooth. The date must be legible to qualify as Good; coins with no visible date grade below this level. Most common-date Goods are worth $5 to $20 depending on the year.

Fine (F-12 to F-15)

Fine buffalo nickels show moderate, even wear across high points. On the obverse, some braid and facial detail remains visible. On the reverse, the bison’s midsection still shows some muscle definition and the horn is partially visible. Coins in Fine condition show decent detail but lack the crispness of higher grades.

Extremely Fine (EF-40 to EF-45)

Extremely Fine is where buffalo nickels start to become genuinely attractive pieces. Wear is limited to the highest points — the top of the bison’s mane and shoulder on the reverse, the cheekbone and top of the braid on the obverse. Sharp detail remains in the fields and protected areas. EF coins represent good collector value for most date-mint combinations.

About Uncirculated (AU-50 to AU-58)

About Uncirculated specimens show only slight wear on the absolute highest points, with significant Mint luster remaining in the protected areas. AU-58 coins can appear almost identical to Mint State pieces under casual examination. This grade represents strong collector appeal and commands meaningful premiums over lower grades.

Mint State (MS-60 to MS-65+)

Mint State buffalo nickels have never seen circulation. Grades within this range are determined by the quantity and severity of contact marks (bag marks and handling marks), the quality and coverage of Mint luster, and the strike sharpness. An MS-63 is a solid, attractive uncirculated coin with some moderate marks. MS-65 represents a gem coin with only minor imperfections. For common dates, the jump from MS-63 to MS-65 can triple or quadruple the value; for key dates, the difference can be tens of thousands of dollars.

Why Condition Is King for Buffalo Nickel Value

Consider the 1916 Buffalo nickel from the Philadelphia Mint — a common date in the series. Here is how condition changes the value:

  • Good (G-4): $15
  • Fine (F-12): $22
  • Extremely Fine (EF-40): $48
  • About Uncirculated (AU-50): $80
  • Mint State MS-63: $185
  • Mint State MS-65: $550+

From a Good coin to a gem MS-65, the same date and mint mark is worth 36 times more. For key dates like the 1916 Doubled Die, the multiplier is even greater — a Good might bring $2,500 while an MS-65 specimen sells for $40,000 or more.

This is why it pays to have a certified expert evaluate your coins rather than relying on general estimates. A coin that looks “pretty good” to an untrained eye might grade AU-58 with professional verification, changing its value dramatically.

Curious what grade your buffalo nickel falls into? Bring it to any PGS Gold & Coin location in the Chicago suburbs for an honest, expert opinion. Visit us Monday through Friday, 10 AM to 6 PM, and Saturdays from 10 AM to 3 PM.

Understanding Strike Quality vs. Wear

When you’re looking at a coin’s condition, you’re actually evaluating two different things: how much it’s been worn down and how well it was made in the first place. Think of it this way: a weak “strike” is like a blurry photo—the details were never sharp to begin with. “Wear,” on the other hand, is like a crisp photo that got faded and creased from being passed around. A coin can be uncirculated (meaning it has no wear) but still have a weak strike, which lowers its value. This is especially true for Buffalo nickels, as the mints didn’t always produce them with perfect clarity. That’s why collectors will pay a premium for a coin with a sharp, well-defined strike.

Key Details to Check: Feathers and Horn

So, how can you tell what you’re looking at? Grab your nickel and a magnifying glass if you have one. The first places to show wear are the highest points of the design. On the front, focus on the Native American’s hair braid and the feathers tied at the top. On a higher-grade coin, you’ll see distinct lines in the feathers and separation in the hair strands. If those areas look smooth or blended together, the coin has seen significant circulation. Now, flip it over. The most famous checkpoint is the bison’s horn. A coin with a complete, sharp horn is a great sign. On heavily worn coins, the horn is often faint or completely gone. Checking these key spots is the first step in getting a rough idea of your coin’s grade and potential value.

Starting a Buffalo Nickel Collection

A Strategy for Beginners

The iconic design and rich history of the Buffalo nickel make it a fantastic starting point for any new collector. Because the series includes many common dates, you can begin building a collection without a significant financial outlay. A great strategy is to focus on acquiring coins from the 1920s and 1930s in circulated yet clear conditions, like “Good” or “Fine.” These pieces are affordable and allow you to appreciate the design’s beauty while learning about different dates and mint marks. As you grow more familiar with the series, you can set your sights on the rarer, more valuable coins. You can often find these starter coins by searching through mixed lots or by browsing our online store for professionally graded examples that fit your budget.

The Challenge of a Complete Set

For many collectors, the ultimate goal is to assemble a complete set of Buffalo nickels, which is a truly rewarding but difficult pursuit. The challenge lies in the series’ numerous key dates, low-mintage issues, and famous varieties. Because the Philadelphia, Denver, and San Francisco mints produced different quantities each year, some date-and-mint combinations are incredibly scarce. Hunting down a high-grade 1926-S or the famous 1937-D “Three-Legged Buffalo” can take years of searching and a considerable investment. This thrill of the hunt is what makes numismatics so exciting. As you work toward completing your set, our experts can help you source specific coins needed to fill those empty slots in your album.

Should You Get Your Buffalo Nickel Professionally Graded?

Professional grading through PCGS (Professional Coin Grading Service) or NGC (Numismatic Guaranty Corporation) makes sense in specific situations. For a full breakdown of both services and when grading is worth the cost, see our PCGS vs NGC comparison guide.

Here is a quick rule of thumb for buffalo nickels:

  • Key dates and varieties: Always. The 1916 Doubled Die, 1918/7-D, 1921-S, 1926-S, and 1937-D Three-Legged Buffalo should be authenticated and graded before any sale. The premium a certified coin commands over a “raw” (ungraded) coin far exceeds the grading fee.
  • Common dates in AU or better: Often worth it. An AU-58 1936 Philadelphia nickel graded and holdered by PCGS or NGC is much easier to sell at fair market value and provides authenticity assurance to the buyer.
  • Common dates in circulated grades (Good through EF): Generally not cost-effective. Grading fees ($30 to $80 per coin through standard services) may exceed the coin’s retail value. A dealer appraisal is sufficient.

At PGS Gold & Coin, we are authorized submitters to both PCGS and NGC. If you have coins that would benefit from professional certification, we can walk you through the submission process and help you decide whether grading makes financial sense for your specific coins. Learn more about our coin grading and appraisal services.

Ready to Sell? Getting the Best Price for Your Buffalo Nickels

If you have decided to sell, here is what to keep in mind to make sure you get a fair deal:

A Word of Warning: Don’t Clean Your Coins

This is the single most important rule in numismatics. Cleaning — even gentle rinsing or polishing — removes the natural surface and toning that collectors expect. A cleaned coin grades “details” by PCGS and NGC, which dramatically reduces its market value compared to an original-surface coin of the same grade. Buyers and grading experts spot cleaning instantly. Leave your coins exactly as you found them.

Do Your Homework: Know What You Have

Check the date and mint mark. Identify whether you might have a key date or variety before accepting any offer. A quick comparison to the value chart above, combined with a free appraisal from a knowledgeable dealer, ensures you are not leaving money on the table. Our guide to evaluating your rare coin collection can help you prepare for the conversation.

Using Pricing Guides like the “Red Book”

When you start researching your coins, you’ll quickly come across resources like “A Guide Book of United States Coins,” famously known as the “Red Book.” This annual guide is an excellent tool for getting a ballpark idea of your Buffalo nickel’s value. It provides retail price ranges for every date and mint mark, broken down by grade. Using it, you can quickly see that a 1926-S is a major key date, while a 1937-D is common. This helps you sort your collection and identify which coins might be worth a closer look. However, it’s important to use these guides as a starting point, not a final price tag.

The values listed in the Red Book are retail estimates, meaning they reflect what a collector might pay for a coin from a dealer’s inventory. They are not offers to buy. More importantly, a book can’t grade your coin for you. The difference between a “Fine” and an “Extremely Fine” 1921-S nickel is over a thousand dollars—a distinction that requires a trained eye. A guide also can’t tell you if your coin has been cleaned or damaged, which drastically reduces its value. For an accurate, real-world valuation, nothing replaces a hands-on appraisal from a trusted numismatist who understands current market conditions.

Get a Second (and Third) Opinion

For collections with potentially valuable pieces, visit two or three reputable dealers before committing to a sale. Compare written offers when possible. Online platforms, auction houses, and local dealers each serve different types of sellers and different price points. For common dates in bulk, a local dealer who pays immediately is often the most practical choice. For key dates and high-grade specimens, an auction house or specialty numismatic dealer may bring a higher net price.

Find a Reputable Dealer You Can Trust

Choose a dealer with verifiable credentials. PCGS and NGC authorized dealers have demonstrated the expertise to evaluate coins accurately and fairly. Membership in the American Numismatic Association (ANA) and a Better Business Bureau A+ rating are additional trust signals worth checking. Avoid anyone who pressures you to decide immediately or refuses to provide a written offer.

Choosing Where to Sell: Coin Shops, Online, and Auctions

You have three main options when selling your Buffalo nickels, and the right one depends on what you have and your comfort level. For most people, a reputable local coin shop is the best choice. It provides a secure environment where you can get an expert evaluation and an immediate, fair offer without the hassle of shipping or online fees. If you’re in the Chicagoland area, you can visit one of our five locations for a free appraisal. Online marketplaces like eBay can expose your coins to a larger audience, but they come with significant risks, high fees, and require you to handle photography, listing, and shipping. Auctions are typically reserved for exceptionally rare, high-value coins, like a certified Mint State 1916 Doubled Die, where top collectors compete.

How to Avoid Common Scams and Fakes

The coin world has its share of pitfalls, but you can easily avoid them by being informed. Be wary of anyone who pressures you into a quick sale or makes an offer without carefully examining your coins. A common issue with Buffalo nickels is altered coins, such as fakes of the famous “three-legged” variety created by tooling a regular 1937-D nickel. An expert can spot these alterations instantly. The best way to protect yourself is to work with a trusted, established dealer. A business with a long history, a physical storefront, and verifiable credentials—like an A+ rating with the Better Business Bureau and thousands of positive customer reviews—has a reputation to protect. At PGS Gold & Coin, our commitment to integrity is why we’ve served over 100,000 satisfied customers.

Selling Your Buffalo Nickels? We Can Help

At PGS Gold & Coin, we buy buffalo nickels across all grades, from circulated common dates to key dates and varieties. As PCGS, NGC, PMG, and CAC authorized dealers with more than 17 years serving the Chicago area, our certified numismatists provide accurate, fair evaluations you can trust.

We operate five locations across the northwest Chicago suburbs: Glen Ellyn, Palatine, Wheaton, Schaumburg, and Villa Park. Walk-ins are welcome Monday through Friday, 10 AM to 6 PM, and Saturdays from 10 AM to 3 PM. We offer immediate payment for purchases — no waiting for a check, no consignment delays.

Whether you have a single buffalo nickel you found in a drawer or an entire collection from an estate, we are glad to help you understand what you have and what it is worth — with no pressure to sell.

Ready to find out what your buffalo nickels are worth? Contact us today or visit any PGS Gold & Coin location for a free, no-obligation appraisal. Call 888-416-2701 or request an appointment online.

Frequently Asked Questions About Buffalo Nickel Value

Which Buffalo Nickel Is the Most Valuable?

The 1916 Doubled Die Obverse is the single most valuable regular-issue buffalo nickel, with Mint State examples selling for $25,000 to over $40,000. Among varieties, the 1937-D Three-Legged Buffalo is the most famous, with MS-65 examples reaching $15,000 or more. The rarest production issue by mintage is the 1926-S, with only 970,000 struck.

Are Buffalo Nickels Made of Silver?

No. Buffalo nickels are composed of 75% copper and 25% nickel — the same composition as modern nickels. They contain no silver or gold. All of their value is numismatic (collector-driven), not based on metal content. Do not confuse them with the Buffalo design used on modern gold Buffalo coins issued since 2006.

Why Can’t I Find a Date on My Buffalo Nickel?

Buffalo nickels are well known for dates that wear off quickly due to the design of the obverse die, which placed the date on a high, exposed area that took the most wear. A dateless buffalo nickel is still worth $0.50 to $2 for the design alone, but has minimal collector value compared to a dateable example. Do not attempt to restore or enhance the date with chemicals or tools — this destroys any remaining value.

How Can I Tell If My 1937-D Has Three Legs?

Look at the bison’s front legs on the reverse. A normal 1937-D buffalo nickel has four legs. The Three-Legged variety is missing the right front leg entirely, and in its place you may see a faint “dirt line” or streaking artifact left by the die polishing that created the error. Be cautious: this variety is frequently counterfeited by grinding off the leg on a normal coin. Have any suspected example authenticated by PCGS or NGC before paying a premium for it.

How Much Is a No-Date Buffalo Nickel Worth?

A dateless buffalo nickel typically sells for $0.50 to $2 depending on the overall condition and design visibility. Some dealers and collectors buy them in bulk lots at around $1 each. The date is necessary to determine any collector premium, so undated examples have very limited numismatic value.

Where Can I Sell Buffalo Nickels Near Chicago?

PGS Gold & Coin operates five locations in the Chicago suburbs, including Glen Ellyn, Palatine, Wheaton, Schaumburg, and Villa Park. We buy buffalo nickels in all conditions, offer free appraisals, and pay immediately. Call 888-416-2701 or stop in during business hours, Monday through Friday, 10 AM to 6 PM, and Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM.

Key Takeaways

  • Value is in the details, not just age: A Buffalo nickel’s worth is determined by its date, mint mark (D, S, or none for Philadelphia), and physical condition. Key dates like the 1926-S or famous errors like the 1937-D Three-Legged Buffalo are far more valuable than common, circulated coins.
  • Condition is the most important factor: The financial difference between a worn coin and a pristine, uncirculated one can be thousands of dollars, especially for rare dates. Check key details like the bison’s horn and the Native American’s hair braid to get a rough idea of your coin’s grade.
  • Get a professional opinion before selling: Never clean your coins, as this destroys their collector value. For an accurate valuation, especially for potential key dates or high-grade coins, consult a reputable dealer who can assess its grade, authenticity, and current market price.

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